What is Einkorn? The oldest wheat still used today
Long before modern wheat was developed, einkorn was already being grown by early farming communities more than ten thousand years ago. It is often described as an ancient grain, though in truth it is something more precise than that. It is the most ancient form of wheat still cultivated today.
Part of what makes einkorn distinctive lies in its simplicity. All wheat is built from sets of chromosomes, which can be understood as bundles of instructions shaping how a plant grows and behaves. Einkorn carries only two of these sets. Later wheats emerged through natural crossings between grasses that combined their instructions. Emmer carries four sets. Modern bread wheat carries six.
With each addition came greater flexibility, allowing the plant to be shaped for yield, uniformity and industrial performance. Einkorn, by contrast, has far less redundancy. Its structure offers fewer possibilities for alteration, and as a result it has remained closer to its original character.
This simplicity is not something we think about in abstract terms. It is something we meet every time we make pasta.
Why we chose einkorn
We began working with einkorn not because it was fashionable and not because it was easy, but because we wanted to understand how different pasta could feel to eat.
Very early on we realised that einkorn was not simply another flour. It produced a different experience on the plate.
At the same time, it represented something important beyond the kitchen. Growing einkorn means growing a non commodity grain. It supports diversity in the field and encourages farming systems that move away from uniformity.
For the past seven years we have worked continuously with einkorn for both reasons. To explore a different eating experience and to support the continued cultivation of grains that sit outside the mainstream.
It has not always been straightforward.
There have been years when supply simply disappeared. In 2024 we suspended production entirely because there was no einkorn left. That year’s harvest lasted barely two months.
Today we rely heavily on Carr House Farm in Yorkshire, where the Webb family set aside part of their organic einkorn harvest specifically for our pasta each season. Without growers willing to cultivate these smaller crops, einkorn would remain a curiosity rather than a living ingredient.
What we notice when we work with it
Einkorn reveals its character immediately.
When we mix the dough and add water, the first thing we see is colour. The mass turns golden almost at once.
This comes from naturally occurring pigments in the grain known as carotenoids, which are also found in egg yolks and certain vegetables. Modern wheat has largely lost these compounds through selection for pale flour. Einkorn retains them.
The dough itself behaves differently too.
Modern wheat tends to form a strong, elastic structure when hydrated, shaped by a gluten network selected over time for strength and stretch.
Einkorn forms something softer.
It does not stretch in the same way. It yields more easily. Where modern dough can be pushed and folded repeatedly, einkorn prefers gentler handling.
This does not make it better or worse. It simply reflects a different structure.
In bread making, einkorn dough is often mixed and shaped with minimal manipulation. In pasta, we encounter the same quality. It absorbs water more delicately and requires care in processing.
Handled aggressively or exposed to excessive heat, its structure can be damaged. Handled thoughtfully, it reveals remarkable character.
A different eating experience
Many people describe foods made with einkorn as feeling lighter to eat. This is not a universal claim, and einkorn is not gluten free.
What is clear is that it is compositionally different from modern wheat, having followed an agricultural path untouched by the intense selection that has shaped contemporary varieties.
When used in wholegrain form, einkorn retains its bran and germ, along with the fibre and micronutrients they contain. As with any grain, the way it is processed matters. Stoneground milling preserves more of the grain’s original composition than refining, influencing both flavour and nutritional profile. Read more about how fibre is built into wheat.
If you are curious about why ancient grains like einkorn, emmer and spelt can feel different, we explore that in more depth here. Why ancient grains like einkorn, emmer and spelt feel different.
Einkorn and the field
Working with einkorn is not only about pasta. It is about the landscape that produces it.
Modern agriculture has favoured uniformity and scale, narrowing the range of grains cultivated across our fields. Einkorn grows differently. It is a tall wheat, with a deep rooting system that allows it to draw from lower soil layers and cope better with thinner, higher or more marginal ground. Over time we have come to appreciate that this matters, because resilience is not a marketing word. It is a practical advantage.
Einkorn is often able to adapt where more modern wheats struggle. Its structure allows it to grow with fewer inputs and under less favourable conditions. It is also a hulled wheat, meaning the grain remains naturally enclosed in a protective outer layer. This offers a degree of natural defence against pests and fungal pressures, which is one of the reasons einkorn is particularly well suited to organic farming systems.
In this way, einkorn contributes not only diversity but also resilience. As growing conditions become less predictable, grains that can tolerate variability without heavy intervention become increasingly valuable.
Each year that einkorn is planted represents a small widening of the genetic base of what we grow and eat, but also a strengthening of the system itself.
Without farmers willing to set aside land for it, grains like einkorn would quietly disappear. If you would like a simple explainer on what organic actually means in practice, you can read it here. What does organic really mean.
Einkorn in pasta
In pasta, einkorn’s qualities emerge slowly.
We discovered early on that working with einkorn meant learning to observe rather than impose. The dough behaves differently and responds best when allowed to settle into its own rhythm.
When used in pasta, its naturally warm colour deepens during drying, while its gentle flavour remains intact when treated with care. We found that preserving these qualities depends on patience.
Because of its delicate structure, high temperatures can damage the very elements that make it unique. Slow drying at low temperatures allows the grain to stabilise over time. Why we make slow dried pasta and why that is a good thing.
By drying pasta gradually over long periods, often close to forty hours, we aim to retain flavour, structure and integrity. The result is a pasta that cooks evenly and offers a steady, satisfying experience on the plate. If you want the deeper explanation of energy and wholegrain structure, you can read it here. Why slow dried wholegrain pasta gives steady, lasting energy.
Over time, we have come to see einkorn not simply as an alternative to modern wheat, but as a reminder of how wheat once was, and perhaps how it might still be.
One last fun fact
In Italy, einkorn is called farro piccolo, or even more confusingly just farro.
The term farro is used broadly to describe several ancient wheats. Farro medio refers to emmer, while farro grande refers to spelt. Three genetically distinct wheats, carrying different sets of chromosomes, are grouped under the same name.
FAQ
What is einkorn wheat?
Einkorn is the oldest cultivated wheat still grown today. It is structurally simpler than later wheats and has a distinct composition and behaviour in both farming and cooking.
Is einkorn gluten free?
No. Einkorn contains gluten. It is, however, different from modern wheat in its protein composition and how its dough behaves.
Why use einkorn for pasta?
Einkorn brings a naturally warm colour, gentle flavour and a distinct texture. It also rewards careful processing, especially slow drying at low temperatures.
Why is einkorn often linked to organic farming?
Einkorn is a hulled wheat, meaning the grain remains protected by an outer layer. It is also associated in research with resilience to pests, diseases and certain environmental stresses, which can make it a natural fit for lower input systems.
Sources
- Cooper (2015) Re-discovering ancient wheat varieties as functional foods (Foods)
- Shewry (2015) Do “ancient” wheat species differ from modern bread wheat? (Journal of Cereal Science)
- Mahmood et al. (2023) Einkorn genomics reveals ancient roots of domesticated wheat
- Bencze et al. (2025) Return of Ancient Wheats, Emmer and Einkorn (Sustainability)
- Roumia et al. (2023) Ancient Wheats: A Nutritional and Sensory Analysis Review
Notes
The information shared in this article is intended for general educational purposes and reflects our experience working with einkorn and current food and agricultural research. It is not medical or nutritional advice.
Individual responses to foods vary. If you have specific dietary or medical concerns, seek advice from a qualified professional.